In short
- The shape of the staircase decides most things: one straight flight usually suits a straight rail, while any bend, winder tread or half-landing usually needs a curved rail made to measure.
- Rails are normally fixed to the stair treads rather than the wall, so they can usually go on either side of the stairs.
- Hinged or folding rail ends can keep a doorway or hallway clear at the bottom of the stairs.
- Swivel seats, perch seats and standing platforms help with getting on and off safely, so try them at the survey if you can.
- Most domestic stairlifts run on batteries that charge when parked, so they can usually make a few journeys during a power cut.
Start with the staircase, not the brochure
Before you compare models, it helps to describe your stairs accurately, because that tells you which kind of lift is realistic. Stand at the bottom and the top, and note the following.
- Is it one straight run from bottom to top, with no turns and no landing part way up?
- Are there any winder treads, the wedge-shaped steps that turn a corner, at the top or bottom?
- Is there a half-landing where the stairs change direction, and does anyone need to stop there, for example to reach a bathroom?
- Is there a door, a radiator, a front door or a narrow hallway close to the bottom step?
- How wide are the stairs, and does anyone else in the home need to use them?
- Is there a plug socket near the top or bottom where the lift could park and charge?
Then think about the person who will use the lift. Can they sit down and stand up comfortably, or do their knees or hips make bending difficult? Can they turn safely at the top? Are they likely to need more help over time? An occupational therapist can help with these questions, and a good installer will ask them at the survey.
Straight rails, curved rails and how they are fixed
A straight stairlift runs on a single straight rail. Because the rail is a standard section cut to length, installers often hold stock and can fit one soon after the survey. A curved stairlift runs on a rail shaped to follow your staircase round each bend and landing, so one chair can travel the whole way. Even a single turn or a few winder treads usually mean a curved rail.
On most domestic stairlifts the rail is fixed to the stair treads with brackets, not to the wall. That has some practical advantages. The rail can usually go on either side of the stairs, the walls are not normally affected, and when the lift is removed the screw holes in the treads are usually the main sign it was there. The installer will check that the treads are sound enough to take the fixings.
- Inside or outside the curve: on a curved staircase the rail can sometimes run on either side. The inside of a bend is shorter but tighter, while the outside can give a smoother ride and different parking positions. Ask why the installer has chosen one side.
- Over-run at the top: a rail that carries on a little past the top step lets the user get off on the level landing rather than next to the drop.
- Parking round a corner: a curved rail can sometimes park the chair round a bend at the bottom, out of the way of the hallway.
- Half-landing stops: some curved rails can stop part way up, if someone needs to get off at a landing.
Folding and hinged rails at the bottom of the stairs
On a straight lift, the rail usually needs to extend a little beyond the bottom step so the chair can sit at a comfortable height. In many Kent homes, particularly older terraces with a door or a narrow hallway at the foot of the stairs, that bit of rail can get in the way or become a trip hazard.
A hinged or folding rail solves this. The lowest section of rail lifts up out of the way when the lift is parked at the top, and comes back down when the chair is called. Depending on the model it may fold manually or automatically. Another option on some lifts is a sliding rail, where the rail moves up the stairs as the chair travels so nothing sticks out at the bottom.
- Ask how much floor the rail and chair take up at the bottom, both folded and unfolded.
- Check whether any door at the bottom of the stairs can still open fully.
- If the hinge is automatic, ask what happens if something is in the way when it lowers.
- Consider whether a curved rail that parks round a corner would work better than a hinge.
Seats: swivel, perch and standing options
The seat is where the person using the lift will notice the difference most. Most stairlifts have a seat, armrests and a footrest that fold up when not in use, which helps leave room for others on the stairs. Beyond that, these options are worth asking about.
- Swivel seat: at the top of the stairs the seat turns, usually by 90 degrees, so the user can get off facing the landing rather than the drop. Swivels can be manual, operated with a lever, or powered at the press of a button, which helps someone with weak hands or arms.
- Perch seat: a narrower, higher seat that the user leans against in a half-standing position. It can suit people who find it hard to bend their knees or hips, and it can work on stairs too narrow for a full seat.
- Standing platform: the user stands on a small platform and holds on. It is only suitable for people who can stand steadily for the whole journey.
- Seat height and width: seats can often be set higher or lower, and heavy-duty models are available with a higher weight limit.
- Controls: a joystick or toggle on the armrest, plus call-and-send remotes so the chair can be brought to whichever end of the stairs it is needed. Some lifts have a key switch to stop children or visitors using it.
Batteries, charging points and power cuts
Most domestic stairlifts run on rechargeable batteries rather than straight from the mains. The batteries charge whenever the chair is parked at a charging point, usually at the top and bottom of the rail, and a transformer plugs into a normal socket. This means a smooth ride and low electricity use, and it also means the lift can usually still make a few journeys during a power cut.
- Keep the socket switched on. A lift that beeps when parked is often telling you it isn't charging, and a switched-off socket is a common cause.
- Park the lift properly at a charging point after each journey, rather than leaving it part way up the stairs.
- Ask how many journeys the lift can make on a full charge without mains power, and what the warning signs of a low battery are.
- Batteries wear out over time. A lift that is getting slower or struggling to climb may need new ones, which is part of normal servicing.
- Ask how the chair can be moved if the batteries go completely flat with someone part way up. Many models have a way of lowering the chair manually, which the installer should show you.
If the user lives alone, think about what would happen if the lift stopped. A telephone or personal alarm that can be reached from the stairs, and a written note of the engineer's breakdown number, are sensible precautions.
Reconditioned and rental lifts: what you are actually getting
A reconditioned stairlift has been used before, then taken back, inspected and refurbished. The work usually includes cleaning, replacing worn parts and batteries, testing the safety sensors and sometimes new upholstery. Reconditioned lifts are most common for straight stairs, because a straight rail can be cut to a new length. On curved stairs, a reconditioned option usually means a refurbished chair on a new rail made for your staircase.
- Ask how old the lift is, what was replaced, and whether the manufacturer still supplies spare parts for that model.
- Ask what warranty is included and whether it differs from a new lift.
- Make sure you still get a full survey, rather than a lift chosen over the phone.
Rental lifts are usually reconditioned straight lifts that are fitted, maintained and later removed by the supplier. Rental can suit someone coming home from hospital, a relative staying for a while, or a family who isn't yet sure what is needed. Check who is responsible for servicing and breakdowns during the rental, the minimum term, the notice needed to end it, any removal charge, and whether there is an option to buy the lift later.
Outdoor stairlifts and steps outside the house
An outdoor stairlift is built to cope with the weather, with sealed electrics, corrosion-resistant parts and usually a cover for the seat. It can help with steep steps up to a front door, steps down a sloping garden or a path to a gate. On the Kent coast, from Thanet to Folkestone and Deal, ask how the lift copes with salt air and wind.
- There needs to be a firm, level area at the top and bottom where the user can get on and off safely.
- The steps must be solid enough to take the rail fixings, and any crumbling steps may need repair first.
- The lift needs a power supply to charge, which may mean an outdoor socket fitted by an electrician.
- The parked lift shouldn't block a gate, bin store or shared path.
- If the steps are shared, or the home is listed or in a conservation area, check with neighbours, the freeholder or the council before ordering.
How long fitting takes for each type
Timing is often important, for example if someone is waiting to come home from hospital. Lead times vary between suppliers and change with demand, so these are general patterns rather than promises. As a rough guide, a straight lift can often be fitted within a day to around two weeks of ordering, and curved lifts take longer.
| Type | Usual wait after the survey | Fitting on the day |
|---|---|---|
| Straight, new or reconditioned | Often days rather than weeks, if the installer has stock | Usually a few hours |
| Curved | Some weeks, because the rail is made to measure after a detailed survey | Usually most of a day, sometimes longer |
| Rental | Often quick for straight stairs; curved rental still needs a made rail | Similar to buying the same type |
| Outdoor | Depends on the rail and any preparation of the steps or power supply | Varies with the site |
If there is a date you are working towards, say so when you ask for quotes. Ask each installer for their current lead time in writing, and whether a rental lift could be fitted in the meantime if a curved rail will take a while.
Side-by-side comparison of the main options
This summary brings the main points together. Use it as a starting point for conversations with installers and with the person who will use the lift.
| Option | Suits | Things to weigh up |
|---|---|---|
| New straight stairlift | One straight flight with no turns or landings | Folded width on narrow stairs, a hinged rail if there is a door at the bottom, and warranty and servicing terms |
| New curved stairlift | Stairs with bends, winders, half-landings or a spiral | Longer wait, higher cost, and the rail usually can't be reused in another home |
| Reconditioned stairlift | Straight stairs where a lower upfront cost matters | Age of the lift, availability of spare parts, and the warranty offered |
| Outdoor stairlift | Garden steps, front steps and steep paths | Weather and salt air, a safe landing area at each end, and a power supply |
| Rental stairlift | Short-term or uncertain needs, such as after a hospital stay | Fitting and removal charges, minimum term, notice period and total cost if the need continues |
Whichever option you choose, it should come with a home survey, a written quote, a clear explanation of how the lift works, and a demonstration on the day it is fitted. The guide on choosing a supplier covers those steps in more detail.
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Sources
- BSI: BS EN 81-40:2020, stairlifts and inclined lifting platforms intended for persons with impaired mobility: knowledge.bsigroup.com/products/safety-rules-for-the-construction-and-installation-of-lifts-special-lifts-for-the-transport-of-persons-and-goods-stairlifts-and-inclined-lifting-platforms-intended-for-persons-with-impaired-mobility
- NHS: Home adaptations: www.nhs.uk/social-care-and-support/care-services-equipment-and-care-homes/home-adaptations/
- GOV.UK: Disabled Facilities Grants: www.gov.uk/disabled-facilities-grants
- HMRC: Reliefs from VAT for disabled and older people (VAT Notice 701/7): www.gov.uk/guidance/reliefs-from-vat-for-disabled-and-older-people-notice-7017